Air, I have a Bruce hardwood floor, engineered board, EB 920, Somerset strip. I installed it this summer, and need assistance. I rolled a floor dolly on the floor with a piece of furniture aboard. The dolly left a mark that looks as if it were crushing the floor (ie, it is not a mark that can be cleaned). The mark runs the entire length of the floor from where the dolly started, and when the sun is shining right, you can easily see the mark.
I need a solution to repair this long scar in my floor- is there a polyurethane patch kit or liquid I can use to remove this mark or am I screwed. Next question. In the gluing process, I have a few boards that did not set and now are no longer attached to the floor. That said, you cannot tell unless you step on them and they creak (or pop) a little. I have tried using a chair glue (for loose joints) that gets between cracks and have had some success. Am looking for another option for this glued down floor. Thanks in advance!
Unfortunately prefinished floor, with their factory conversion finishes are just about impossible to imitate when doing touch ups. And your case is very difficult, as it runs across many boards. If it only involved a few boards, I would suggest you simply replace that part of the floor, with new wood. Before the color is discontinued.
First, contact Bruce or the supplier, and see it they have a finish touch up kit. They would have made this kit with hopefully a finish that comes close to the original. You should have this kit for future touch ups in any case. If the finish, applied with an artists brush, succeeds in filling the mark, you have done well. It may take several coats to accomplish this.
But if the dent is deep (and you need to confirm it’s a dent, no missing wood) you may be able to steam puff the wood back to shape. You didn’t say how thick the top veneer was, but if it’s at least 1/8″ this method will work.
First remove the finish from the dent area only, by either sanding or chemical stripping. Wet a corner of a clean white rag with distilled water, and apply it to the dent with a hot iron right behind. You will hear a hiss of steam and after a few tries the wood should start to level out. You can also use rubbing alcohol and a clean new soldering iron, this gives you a bit more control, but is a slower method. You can then touch up the spot, as best you can or sand the whole floor again.
Try any or all of these methods in just a small practice spot first, and see if you can live with the results. It may be better to live with the original dent, and when the floor finish is really worn out, sand the floor and refinish it, but this will be 20 years from now. But this applies only if you have at least an 1/8″ thick top veneer layer. Again, you didn’t describe the wood, and I couldn’t find a description in the Bruce site. It may have been discontinued already.
The best solution for the loose boards is the Dri-Tac Professional Wood Floor Repair System, at www.dritac.com. It comes with a diluted version of their famous glue, drill bits, syringe and dowels. In short everything you need for the injection repair, this kit actually works. Next time you install a floor use Dri-Tac glue instead and avoid these troubles.